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The mood was powerful and glamorous as Italian fashion label Gucci showcased a dramatic fall line-up during the Day 1 of the 2012 Milan Fashion Week.

Named "Opulent Romanticism," the collection has been described as "soft and structured" by creative director Frida Giannini and it comprises chic silhouettes and rich fabrics, like velvets, brocades and jacquards.

The collection featured mostly black and other luxurious shades like burgundy, greens and navy blues. The show mostly included a series of gowns and red-carpet dresses in crushed velvet, feathers and chiffon for the evening wear section while the opening collection comprised military-style jackets, equestrian-inspired trousers, flowing capes and fur coats.

The AFP reported that bejeweled tassels and large bows hung from the neckline and waists of soft printed silk and velvet playsuits reminiscent of pyjamas and cut in masculine lines, as Gucci moved from "fearless femininity" to "dandy indulgence".

Of particular attention was a three-piece collection that included a dress, skirt and jacket in blue and green feathers.

Playing the masculine/feminine contrast to great effect, the strong, sensual collection perfectly expressed the modern Gucci woman.

The vibrant monochrome creations, predominantly in black, exuded a feel of dark glamour and received a murmur of appreciation from the crowd.

Designer Giannini is reportedly a keen horsewoman and her current collection including jodphur trousers worn with boots and riding jackets reinstated the fact. She is also known to design from heritage. Her 2010 Winter Men's line was also noted for influences from Gucci's equestrian history.

"I don't think it is a nostalgic collection, but heritage is good for me - going back to the archives, but looking forward to the future," says Giannini.

Start the slideshow to take a look at Gucci's Autumn/Winter 2012 collection at the Milan Fashion Week: