Valentino Garavani's Biggest Scandals Explained as Fashion's 'Last Emperor' Dies
Valentino Garavani passed away at 93 years old. fondazionevggg/Instagram

Valentino Garavani, the visionary who dressed royalty and defined an era of haute couture elegance, has died at 93, leaving behind a legacy as complex as the gowns he created.

The Italian designer passed away peacefully at his Roman residence on 20 January 2026, his foundation confirmed, bringing to a close a chapter spanning six decades of global influence, unmatched craftsmanship, and recurring controversy.

Known to the fashion world as its 'Last Emperor,' Garavani commanded admiration and criticism in equal measure.

As tributes pour in from Milan to Hollywood, attention has turned once again to the disputes—over beauty standards, cultural sensitivity, and financial affairs—that shadowed his extraordinary rise.

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Valentino Garavani's Biggest Controversies Explained

Despite his stature, Valentino Garavani controversies were not isolated moments. They emerged across interviews, runway decisions, and corporate matters as his brand expanded worldwide.

Controversial Views on Women, Beauty, and Body Image

Garavani repeatedly voiced traditional views on femininity that clashed with changing attitudes in fashion. In a 2007 interview with RTL Television, he criticised casual dress and minimal grooming, saying he felt 'very sorry' for women who appeared without make-up. He later added that women should 'always be perfect,' comments that were widely criticised for reinforcing rigid beauty standards at a time when the industry was pushing for inclusion.

Backlash Over Comments on Diversity and Dress Codes

Further criticism followed remarks about social behaviour and appearance. Garavani expressed disapproval of relaxed dress codes in cultural venues, recalling his shock at seeing theatre-goers in casual clothing. The comments came as designers faced pressure to reflect diversity and modern lifestyles, placing Garavani at odds with younger audiences and industry peers.

Cultural Appropriation and the 'Wild Africa' Runway Controversy

The Valentino Spring/Summer 2016 collection triggered a strong backlash. Designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, the show featured mostly white models styled with cornrows and dreadlocks, alongside garments inspired by African motifs. Critics accused the brand of cultural appropriation, noting that only eight of the 87 models were Black and that show descriptions used terms such as 'wild' and 'primitive.'

Legal and Financial Disputes Linked to the Valentino Name

Garavani and his longtime partner Giancarlo Giammetti were named in the 2016 Panama Papers investigation by the International Consortium of Investigative Journalists. The documents linked them to offshore companies, following earlier scrutiny by Italian tax authorities. The matter was settled after an estimated €33 million (£28.72 million) payment.

Separately, the designer became embroiled in a long-running trademark dispute with Mario Valentino, which escalated into legal action in 2019 over branding and logo use.

Criticism Over AI Campaign and Corporate Culture Allegations

In late 2025, the brand faced fresh criticism after launching the 'DeVain Digital Creative Project,' an AI-led campaign that some consumers described as inconsistent with couture craftsmanship. Around the same period, allegations against Janice Lam, Valentino's chief executive for Greater China, emerged in a whistleblower letter accusing her of fostering a toxic workplace, prompting internal investigations.

These episodes highlighted the tension between Garavani's traditional vision and the industry's rapid change.

Garavani Is No More

Valentino Garavani died peacefully at his Roman residence on 20 January. He died of natural causes related to age. In its statement, the foundation described him as 'a true source of light, creativity and vision.'

His body lay in state on 21 and 22 January 2026 at Piazza Mignanelli, with a funeral held on 23 January 2026 in Rome. Italian Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni hailed him as an 'eternal symbol of Italian high fashion.'

A Legacy Shaped by Brilliance and Dispute

Born in 1932 in Voghera, Garavani founded his fashion house in Rome in 1960 and became one of the most influential designers of the 20th century.

He dressed figures including Elizabeth Taylor, Audrey Hepburn and Princess Diana, and defined red-carpet glamour with Valentino Red, now recognised by Pantone.

Retiring in 2007, he ended his career with an all-red haute couture show. His life was documented in the 2008 film Valentino: The Last Emperor.

Despite enduring debate, Valentino Garavani's influence on global fashion remains indelible.