Cocoon
Cocoon made its Paris pop-up debut with immersive brand experiences.

On a crisp April morning in Paris, visitors to Westfield Forum encountered something unexpected: a Vietnamese 'sidewalk café' tucked inside a European shopping center. Products bearing unfamiliar ingredient names, like Đắk Lắk coffee, Ben Tre pomelo, Hau Giang lotus, lined the shelves of Cocoon's first European pop-up store.

This marked a milestone two years in the making: the arrival of Vietnam's one of the first vegan beauty brands in France.

Beauty's Ultimate Proving Ground

The overall cosmetics market in France is projected to reach $2.95 billion in 2025 with a steady 3.16% CAGR through 2030. Yet these growth figures only hint at the market's true significance. With total beauty consumption valued at $13-14 billion according to Statista, France not only leads Europe but holds the top position globally for cosmetics exports.

Entry into France, and by extension, the broader European Union, requires navigating a comprehensive regulatory framework. Products must secure strict requirements such as Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP) certification, the Cosmetic Products Notification Portal (CPNP).

To date, Vietnamese beauty brands have concentrated expansion efforts in ASEAN markets. Cocoon's European entry, however, breaks this pattern.

France as Cocoon's Gateway to European Growth

Cocoon's path to French shelves was the result of two years of preparation. To meet European standards, the company upgraded its facilities, validated formulations and fragrances for regulatory compliance, overhauled packaging to INCI requirements, and secured internationally recognised vegan certifications.

Yet Cocoon saw these standards as validation rather than obstacles. 'We see these standards not as a barrier, but as a necessary step to prove that Vietnamese cosmetics can meet global expectations in quality, commitment, and integrity',said Pham Minh Dung, Director of Business and Marketing at Cocoon Vietnam.

That compliance groundwork also reinforced Cocoon's broader positioning thesis: that Vietnamese beauty can compete internationally through a combination of vegan formulations, culturally rooted ingredients, and authentic storytelling. At the center of that proposition are agricultural ingredients such as Đắk Lắk coffee, Ben Tre pomelo, Hau Giang lotus, and Hung Yen turmeric, selected for proven efficacy and narrative depth.

Cocoon
Cocoon is ready for the French market, meeting European standards.

Coffee offers the clearest example of that strategy. 'Vietnamese coffee from Đắk Lắk is already globally recognised, but we offer a new perspective by applying it in skincare', Dung explained. 'Instead of just being a beverage, coffee becomes an ingredient that helps improve skin texture, radiance, and delivers a distinctive sensory experience.'

The Cocoon's Paris pop-up now serves as the first real-world test of whether that proposition can resonate beyond Asia. Running through 21 April at Glowstation in Westfield Forum, the activation is designed not only to generate visibility and sales, but also to capture direct consumer feedback on product-market fit—from reactions.

Its expansion into France also significantly broadens Cocoon's international footprint. With access to all 27 European Union member states as well as the United Kingdom, Switzerland and Norway, the brand now operates across 45 countries and territories.

Vietnam's Beauty Industry Goes Global

Vietnam has long been recognised for coffee exports and textile manufacturing, with 'Made in Vietnam' historically connoting cost-effective production rather than branded innovation. The country's beauty industry reflects this pattern: while sophisticated in domestic manufacturing capacity, Vietnamese cosmetics brands have struggled to achieve international recognition. Even when Vietnamese brands do export, their reach typically stops at ASEAN borders rather than extending to premium Western markets.

Cocoon's retail placement in France begins to challenge that pattern. 'Over the next three years, our goal is to expand beyond France and gradually enter multiple markets across the European Union', said Dung. 'In the long term, we are working toward becoming a globally recognised vegan beauty brand that is trusted by consumers across Europe.'

More broadly, its initial entry into France now serves as an early blueprint for how Vietnamese beauty brands can scale beyond Asia and into Europe.

*Katrina Thompson is a Hong Kong-based freelance writer with a strong background in luxury business. She covers news on business, real estate, and luxury business across Asia.