The Business of Rebellion: Bhumi's Emma van Engelen Merges Activism with Fashion Tech

In the spring of 2024, Amsterdam Fashion Week witnessed a showstopper unlike any other. At the heart of it was Bhumi, a bold new fashion label founded by designer Emma van Engelen, whose work is quietly starting a revolution. Merging cutting-edge 3D printing with radical body inclusivity, Bhumi isn't just selling clothes it's making a statement.

Emma van Engelen, a former model-turned-entrepreneur, launched Bhumi with a mission that goes far beyond fabric and form. The Dutch creative, still in her twenties, is using fashion to challenge rigid beauty standards and explore the intersection of technology, sustainability, and self-expression. And people are listening.

Fashion as Protest

Bhumi's debut collection, aptly titled Breaking the Mold, made headlines for its unapologetically maximalist shapes and its celebration of diverse body types. The show featured models of all sizes adorned in sculptural pieces, many of them accented by striking 3D-printed elements. The now-iconic 'Siren' bag glossy, contoured, and otherworldly became an instant symbol of the brand's design language.

But Bhumi is more than aesthetics. 'We use fashion as protest,' Van Engelen told Amsterdam Fashion Week's editorial team. The brand's garments are built with the intention of reclaiming space for bodies that are often sidelined by the fashion industry. By embracing additive manufacturing (3D printing) and biodegradable materials like PLA (Polylactic Acid), Bhumi also champions environmental consciousness.

From Runway to Real Change

Bhumi's ethos of accessibility is not just marketing; it's built into the brand's DNA. Couture is often synonymous with exclusivity, but Bhumi flips that narrative. Each garment is made-to-measure, accommodating all body shapes with no upper size limits. The idea is simple but powerful: everyone deserves to wear art that fits them both physically and philosophically.

The brand's resonance has extended beyond the Netherlands. Earlier this year, ELLE Netherlands featured actress Nicola Coughlan in a custom Bhumi ensemble on its cover, a move that sparked praise across social media for its fresh take on red carpet styling and size representation.

Van Engelen credits her background in modelling for her perspective. 'I remember being told to skip meals before shoots. At 17,' she shared in a recent interview. That experience, she says, planted the seeds for Bhumi's inclusive foundations.

Rooted in the Earth, Reaching for the Future

The name Bhumi is taken from the Sanskrit word for 'earth', and the brand's commitment to grounded design is evident in every collection. Organic textures, exaggerated silhouettes, and structural accessories reflect nature's imperfect beauty. 'We're not trying to smooth people out,' Van Engelen said. 'We're trying to show the beauty of what already exists.'

Sustainability isn't an afterthought; it's a design principle. The team continues to experiment with new materials and techniques to minimise waste and promote circular fashion practices. Every Bhumi piece is created on-demand, reducing overproduction one of fashion's dirtiest secrets.

Beyond the Clothes: A Cultural Moment

Bhumi is not just a brand, but part of a broader cultural shift. Its visual storytelling, often amplified through platforms like Instagram and Seamm.io, invites conversation around reclaiming identity, resisting conformity, and using digital tools to build a more equitable creative future.

The digital realm is essential to Van Engelen's vision. Short-form videos and behind-the-scenes footage have brought Bhumi's community behind the curtain, humanising couture and turning the fashion show into a shared experience. This strategy has helped Bhumi connect with younger audiences who value transparency, politics, and individuality.

What Comes Next

Looking ahead, Van Engelen hopes to collaborate with other like-minded designers, deepen Bhumi's sustainability efforts, and expand internationally. But she's clear that scale will never come at the cost of values. 'We're building slowly on purpose. Because we want to get it right.'

In a world where fashion often feels distant, elitist, and disposable, Bhumi offers something rare: a label that is personal, political, and proudly imperfect. It's not just fashion for the future; it's fashion with a soul.