Europe Bans 'Toxic' Gel Nail Ingredient Over Cancer and Fertility Fears: What Are the Safer Alternatives?

From Paris to Berlin, nail salons are facing a shake-up as the European Union enforces a ban on a popular ingredient found in gel nail polish. Starting 1 September, trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO) is prohibited in cosmetics across the bloc, after regulators classified it as 'carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to reproduction'.

The chemical, a photoinitiator, is what gives gel manicures their ultra-glossy finish and rapid drying time under UV or LED lamps. But EU authorities determined that its potential impact on fertility and reproductive health was too great to ignore, even though much of the evidence comes from animal studies.

Why was TPO Banned?

Gel nail polish has become a beauty staple since the 2000s, promising chip-free shine that can last for weeks. Unlike traditional polish, it cures under light to create a hard, durable surface. Not every brand uses TPO, but many popular formulas do.

'The European Union is banning it out of caution, since even though we don't yet have large-scale human studies proving harm, the potential risks were enough to warrant stricter regulation', explained Dr Hannah Kopelman, a dermatologist at DermOnDemand.

Until now, TPO was permitted in professional-only products at a maximum concentration of 5%. With the new ruling, however, nail salons must discard all existing stock containing the ingredient, with 'no exceptions, no time limit for selling products'.

The compound remains legal in the United States, where it is also used in some dental fillings, although the EU's ban applies only to cosmetics.

Pushback from the Beauty Industry

Importers and salon owners have expressed frustration that the September deadline leaves little time to source replacements. But the European Commission defended the timeline, citing public health.

The controversy echoes previous EU decisions to restrict substances that remain legal in other markets, such as certain food preservatives and additives once dubbed 'the yoga mat chemical'.

Safer Alternatives for Consumers

For customers worried about exposure, experts recommend looking for TPO-free gel systems and being more selective in salon requests. Several brands already market safer formulas, including:

• OPI Intelli-Gel system
• Manicurist (vegan and eco-labelled)
• Aprés Nail
• Nail Creation
• Aimeili

'Consumers should ask their nail technicians about alternatives and look for labels that specifically say TPO-free', Dr Kopelman advised.

Beyond brand choice, dermatologists suggest taking practical precautions:

• Allow a gap of several weeks between gel manicures to reduce cumulative exposure.
• Always apply a protective base coat to shield the natural nail.
• Ensure the service is performed in a well-ventilated space.

Other risks to be Aware of

While the ban targets TPO, it is not the only health concern linked to gel manicures. The curing process requires exposure to UV light, which podiatrists and dermatologists warn may slightly increase the risk of skin cancer over time.

'The UV light used to cure the polish may increase the risk of skin cancer, while thinning or weakening the nail plate before applying the durable gel colour can damage the nail', podiatrist Dr Saylee Tulpule told The New York Post.

Meanwhile, allowing gel nails to grow out can trap moisture and create conditions for bacterial infections. A pathogen known as Pseudomonas can thrive in the gap between gel and nail, producing a green or blue discoloration known as 'greenies'.

A changing beauty landscape

Despite these risks, gel manicures remain a booming industry. More than 100 million American women use nail products, and demand in Europe continues to climb. The new ban may force manufacturers to reformulate, but experts believe consumers will adapt.

'This is not the end of gel nails', Dr Kopelman stressed. 'It is a call to develop safer products and to remind people that moderation, breaks between applications and proper nail care are key'.

For now, the message from regulators is clear: high shine should not come at the expense of health. And for beauty lovers, safer choices already exist — proving that style and safety can go hand in hand.